China 2012

China 2012

The best thing about my 10-day  trip to China? I didn't think about carcinoid!

Chinese family at Great Wall, by Gale Wiley

The 24^th of January launches the year of the Dragon. According to Chinese tradition, it’s an auspicious (meaning important) year for world events including the forces of nature.
 
Since returning from a nine-day visit to Beijing and Shanghai, I’m certain China will be a major part of whatever happens to the world in 2012.

Why? 

Because, China is growing faster and more impressive every second. If you’ve never traveled in Asia before, the scope of population density will take your breath away. I’d like to see folks who favor unbridled growth spend some time in China. It will certainly explain why the “one child” policy in China should be a worldwide effort.

Lucy at the Forbidden City Brrr!

Quick impressions

Everyone works long hours. Old, young, in offices or fields, a 12-hour day is nothing unusual. 

We were there during the advent of the nation’s biggest celebration: the lunar new year, which often gets combined with Christmas and the Western New Year.

Some places displayed Christmas decorations but there were no nativity scenes or anything remotely associated with the religious history of our holidays. We saw a few churches but they appeared to be empty or used for other activities. In Beijing, a large plaza in front of what appeared to be an abandoned cathedral, was the scene of scores of people dancing in unison without touching – sort of a giant Jazzercise session. We didn’t see anyone doing Tai Chi or Qi Gong. We were told the older folks still practice these ancient exercises at 5 a.m. but we weren’t up early.

Ten years ago, the streets were full of bicycles

Now cars and Mopeds park on sidewalks and every possible spot. Drivers are aggressive and dangerous. Traffic rules are mostly ignored. I was nearly clipped a couple of times and saw at least one person seriously injured in the streets.

VW, Mercedes, Toyota, Nissan, Ford – symbolize a level of prosperity China has never seen before. Prior to the People’s Revolution, there were a few wealthy people at the top and vast numbers of peasants who lived and died like slaves. There was no opportunity to become educated, to develop skills, to achieve even lower middle class status.

Now, basic education is mostly free of charge. Top students advance to upper grades or may even be sent abroad to experience what the West offers: creativity; conspicuous consumption; freedom to do pretty much as you like. In the 80s, most Chinese scholars sent to the US ended up becoming citizens and staying here. Now, more are returning to China with expectations of good-paying jobs and a lifestyle their parents could only dream about.

Like a mother hen with too many chicks, the Chinese government keeps trying to appease its enormous population. They know have-nots eventually organize and overthrow their rulers. So keeping folks fed and relatively happy is in the State’s best interest. The second part – squelching organization – is not so easy. But they try. The religious movement known as Falun Gong, was persecuted pretty much out of existence; leaders jailed; followers “re-educated.”

My husband, Gale Wiley, shooting footage in a Buddhist Temple

The government cares less about religion. 

Buddhist temples abound and nobody is hassled for burning incense and chanting. But the idea of folks organizing and establishing any kind of dissent is their worst nightmare. After all, that’s how the current regime was born.

The limits of the Chinese government were tested and clearly shown in Tiananmen Square, now on the must-see list of Beijing’s tourism sights. Official accounts of the brutally-suppressed uprising blame “outside influences” for the carnage.

Now, the perceived threat is the Internet, especially Facebook and Google.

China knows the devastation of social upheaval and they want no part of it. They created their own form of Google called Baidu (Bye-Doo) with their own equivalent of PayPal and FaceBook, both of which are watched and censored. Baidue is totally ripped off from Google, which fought censorship while the Chinese copied them down to the last byte.

Koi pond at a Buddhist temple in China

A funny thing happened in a Buddhist temple. 

I got separated from the group and was searching the maze of pathways for a familiar face. I noticed men in stylish, long black overcoats. They didn’t appear to be guides of any sort and spoke to nobody.

During the Cold War in Europe, I’d seen guys like this - keeping an eye on things. I called them “Little Brothers,” spying for “Big Brother.” I had a video camera and grabbed some footage where photos were allowed.

As I retraced my steps at the temple, a tall man in a black overcoat walked toward me and caught my eye. He kept moving and said quickly, “Be very, very careful, Madam.” He made a swift gesture, lifting his eyes to the sky while bringing his finger and thumb to his mouth, as though drinking from a thimble. “Listening,” he said, taking long strides in the opposite direction.

I briefly imagined myself caught up in a spy thriller, having just received a warning from a double agent. But mostly, I was puzzled. Like most American grannies, I’m mostly ignored.

Today, I saw a small news article about a senior Tibetan monk who set fire to himself to protest China’s oppression in his remote homeland in Sichuan Province. http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/jan/09/china-tibetan-monks-body-paraded. He was the 15^th monk to self-immolate since March!

The news article is dated Jan. 9, the day we left China but it is possible the monk died days earlier. How many of the people praying and chanting at the Beijing temple knew of his death, I wonder. Was the place under special surveillance? Why was the tall man warning me? Perhaps he was trying to tell me there is more to China than most tourists ever see.

Amid the colorful neon signs and the high-end knock-off designer purses, there is a sinister side to China. Any government that seeks to censor and suppress has a dark side.

Someone asked if I now trusted China since I have been there and seen the people. I would say I trust that China does not want war with anyone. I trust their government’s mission to keep its people happy and I trust the Chinese spirit, hard work and intelligence will continue to bring that vast country into the 21^st century.

But if you are there to do business, prepare to be copied. Some would say ripped off. That’s something China and other Asia countries are very, very good at – making copies. Originating ideas and concepts – not so good. But that may change and if it does – watch out.