Perhaps I've been too negative in recalling our China trip. Let me be clear: China is an amazing country. It makes up 19% of our world and with 1.2 billion citizens, China is the most populous nation on the planet. Transitioning from a feudal society to a global economic power hasn't been easy but it has been swift.
Through a series of five-year plans, China has been bootstrapping her country into the 21st century since the late 1940s. Our hotels were first-rate; at least equal to American lodging. The Radisson Blu in Shaghai is superior to the average five-star US hotel.
US and international companies abound. American brands are everywhere. Even in the 7-11. Yes, there are "real" 7-11 stores filled with soda, candy, chips, soap, etc. Just like home.
How did China change seemingly overnight?
As a schoolgirl, I learned China was a "communist" country - there was no more dreaded American word in the 1950s. We denounced "Red China" and feared they would invade our shores. Now, we welcome Chinese visitors and many have become US citizens. But most of us still don't have a clue what China wants or plans.
One Child
Our tour guides were extremely patient and open. They never declined to answer a question. I asked how the "One Child" policy is enforced. Apparently, both incentive and penalty are dispensed.
Every baby is registered with the government, just as in the US. A short time after the birth, a government social worker comes to the home and explains birth control options. Whatever method is chosen is provided free of charge. Primary education is free. Health care is free.
If the mother becomes pregnant again, she may opt to have a second child BUT education for this child will not be free. If the mother is employed by the government, she instantly loses her job AND the family must pay the equivalent of several thousand US dollars to cover the government's cost of providing for this second child.
There are exceptions. Some ethnic minorities, such as the nomadic Mongolians, are exempted from the One Child policy. If you are an only child and you marry an only child, you may opt for a second baby. There are a few other exceptions for farmers and families whose children don't live to adulthood.
The grand scale.
In China, there are no small plans. Everything - from the ultra-modern architecture of downtown Shanghai to Beijing's endless forests of high-rise apartments - is in your face. Twenty new universities will be constructed within a few short years. Many will open within the year. Sending students abroad could become a thing of the past. Already, China has committed to building apartments to house three million people. That's the entire population of France!
Fleeting sights and impressions.
As our tour bus careened through the narrow streets of a tiny village outside Beijing, I saw women sitting in the winter sun, Each one was working on embroidery with silk thread, Each woman had a different style but the themes were pretty much the same - brilliant red blossoms on a leafless branch; a yellow kitten that turned into a gray and white kitten when you flipped the picture from back to front.
I saw some masterful work at the silk museum. There were a few individual designs that didn't look like any of the other pieces. I was especially taken with a large, framed embroidered abstract painting with what appeared to be brush strokes and texture. From a couple of feet away, it looked like a heavy impasto with brilliant colors and drips of paint. Close up, it was a shimmer of silk thread embroidered with tiny, carefully chosen stitches.
What are we doing?
While nearly every Chinese child strives to be the best student in his or her class, a disheartening number of our kids are dropping out of school. We have what they want yet we throw it away.
The secret rooms.
In both Beijing and Shanghai, multi-story buildings are crammed with tiny rooms of fake watches, souvenirs and stuff a tourist might buy. In some of these rooms, no bigger than a closet, ladies handbags looked pretty close to real Vuitons, Coach or Channel. But isay you want "real leather." Suddenly a mirrored wall opens to another room - sometimes a warren of other rooms - where the high-end imitation purses go for about half as much as the real ones.
This price involves haggling and anyone who doesn't like to bargain makes the sales person very happy. So happy, he or she will continue trying to sell you stuff until you want to run away shouting, "No! I won't buy anymore stuff!"
We were warned.
Pickpockets and men who try to lure other guys into dark alleys to meet non-existent girls may be a problem at night in some city places but none of us were ripped off. Occasionally, someone approached a member of our group asking to have a cup of tea so they could practice their English.
One of our tall African-American students was mistaken for a famous athlete. Someone asked for his autograph. We all laughed. He was digging the attention.
We met friends of friends.
Before we left Texas, we emailed several people (mostly Chinese but one American) to make new friends. From them, we learned that life in China is pretty much like life everywhere else. An American teacher enjoyed a salad in the hotel restaurant. He never thought he would tire of Chinese food but after five years, the inevitable happened.
A woman executive for an international company wanted to spend more time with her young daughter but she feared losing her position now would mean losing opportunities later. Another woman, also highly placed, postponed marriage and now doubted she would ever have a family.
My favorite memory was of Beijing, in a maze of ancient one-story houses that had been saved from demolition. We met a real Kung-Fu master who had coached some hollywood stars. HIs home was cozy and humble but he was clearly delighted we were there. We asked him to perform a move.
In a split second, he tapped his temple, flicked his thigh as though pulling a knife, clapped his hands and pointed his finger like a gun while stomping one foot. That's not an adequate description. You had to be there.
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